'61 - '75 Custom Darts, Chargers, Coronets, Polara, Challengers, Etc... 16 Fuses = 18-21 Circuits
The EXPRESS is a very small fuse panel. It has all of the wiring needed to pass most state inspections, fire the engine, gauges, third brake lights, room for Air Conditioning, Power Windows, Power Locks, Stereo, Radio memory for digital systems and all the toys you might want to add - and then some. We can usually ship in a couple days. For your application, the part number is XP-777 This is one of the easiest ways to rewire an older car with upgrades. This is not intended for a total restoration but for the vehcile that you want to use and not have any problems. Alternator types: MOPAR external models or ONE WIRE conversions Heavy alternator feed wires for more amps Distributor: Dealer Electronic or Aftermarket Electronic or Points Terminals for stock ignition switches and connectors for our IS-04, IS-02 dash switch, or column mounted. Reuse your stock switch connector if necessary Gauges: Stock clusters or any Aftermarket gauges of any brand Turn signal switches: Stock steering columns, aftermarket models too- ididit, Flaming River "New" aftermarket head light switch provided for reliability and ease of installation. All fuse box connections for fuel injection for future use. Scrap that stock firewall connector and fuse box for something that works "New" Power Junction block provided. Allows multiple battery feed connections to be made without over loading the starter solenoid stud. Includes back up light wires Includes side marker light wiring (no sockets)
The EXPRESS is a very small fuse panel. It has all of the wiring needed to pass most state inspections, fire the engine, gauges, third brake lights, room for Air Conditioning, Power Windows, Power Locks, Stereo, Radio memory for digital systems and all the toys you might want to add - and then some. We can usually ship in a couple days. For your application, the part number is XP-777 This is one of the easiest ways to rewire an older car with upgrades. This is not intended for a total restoration but for the vehcile that you want to use and not have any problems. Alternator types: MOPAR external models or ONE WIRE conversions Heavy alternator feed wires for more amps Distributor: Dealer Electronic or Aftermarket Electronic or Points Terminals for stock ignition switches and connectors for our IS-04, IS-02 dash switch, or column mounted. Reuse your stock switch connector if necessary Gauges: Stock clusters or any Aftermarket gauges of any brand Turn signal switches: Stock steering columns, aftermarket models too- ididit, Flaming River "New" aftermarket head light switch provided for reliability and ease of installation. All fuse box connections for fuel injection for future use. Scrap that stock firewall connector and fuse box for something that works "New" Power Junction block provided. Allows multiple battery feed connections to be made without over loading the starter solenoid stud. Includes back up light wires Includes side marker light wiring (no sockets)
Why don't we sell a product with a firewall connector and stock fuse box? Fire wall connectors came into being about 1955 or so when the big three realized they were in need of a better way to add accessories to their vehicles yet not slow production time hand wiring the cars and trucks. The plastic connectors used first in the 1955 GM cars introduced a whole new way to assemble the car on the line without delays or mistakes. Since Hot Rods and Customs are not mass produced, my first thought is why use something that has little purpose if you are custom wiring the car.
Firewall connectors started off as simple 8-10 wire plugs located on each side of the firewall and allowed the engine to be pre-wired before it hit the line. Mistakes in this light were dramatically reduced. In the 1960s when accessories started drawing more juice, the firewall plug started to show more of its shortcomings. When ever you unwire a car for restoration, look at the wires and determine where the damage is. There will be some in the middle of a length of wire where some previous owner might have spliced something in. There will be some damage in the engine compartment where repair activity might have smashed a wire or damaged the insulation. Where is the worst? The burns, the melting? At the factory connectors in the fire wall connectors / plugs.
These firewall connectors have terminals made of brass and are pressed together with friction and held there by a plastic housing which is busy trying to hold up to 20 or 30 other wires in place. The result is three sources or trouble. One being the wire to the terminal, second the connection between the two terminals and third the other terminal to the last wire. The result is a clear source of trouble and proven by the melted housing. WIRE WORKS has learned from these indicators and manufacturers their harnesses without the need for a connector. In a vehicle being wired one off the straight copper wire can produce up to 80 percent more current without the risk of failure.
Brass can only carry 12-16% of the amperage the a similar sized copper terminal can carry. Copper of course is too soft for use in smaller terminal applications. Between the loss of capacity and the other crimps and connections, certainly a straight piece of copper wire (times the number of circuits in the plug) can work for you much better.
We have to use connectors in some locations between switches and wires or other sensors and wires but why use them where we don't have to? I started my career wiring cars with the 1960s Mopar vehicles that had firewall plugs that failed in use. I spent a lot of time splicing around the firewall connections to reconnect circuits. Reproduction harness have the wonderful points but I suggest to you that unless you are trying to reproduce a factory vehicle, the connectors in the firewall need to be considered nothing but future trouble. If you want to make a more reliable system eliminate that plug.
Look at what made the original fail, look at age and technology of the fire wall plug AND the fuse box. Did the fuse box have some melted areas? Lots of black surfaces? Why put back the same technology that failed under less load than you intend to put it thru. Are you planning A/C? Power windows? Do you think the original fuses held up OK without these heavy options? Plan ahead and consider modern technology. We have to use connectors in some locations between switches and wires or other sensors and wires but why use them where we don't have to? I started my career wiring cars with the 1960s Mopar vehicles that had firewall plugs that failed in use. I spent a lot of time splicing around the firewall connections to reconnect circuits. Reproduction harness have the wonderful points but I suggest to you that unless you are trying to reproduce a factory vehicle, the connectors in the firewall need to be considered nothing but future trouble. If you want to make a more reliable system eliminate that plug.
Firewall connectors started off as simple 8-10 wire plugs located on each side of the firewall and allowed the engine to be pre-wired before it hit the line. Mistakes in this light were dramatically reduced. In the 1960s when accessories started drawing more juice, the firewall plug started to show more of its shortcomings. When ever you unwire a car for restoration, look at the wires and determine where the damage is. There will be some in the middle of a length of wire where some previous owner might have spliced something in. There will be some damage in the engine compartment where repair activity might have smashed a wire or damaged the insulation. Where is the worst? The burns, the melting? At the factory connectors in the fire wall connectors / plugs.
These firewall connectors have terminals made of brass and are pressed together with friction and held there by a plastic housing which is busy trying to hold up to 20 or 30 other wires in place. The result is three sources or trouble. One being the wire to the terminal, second the connection between the two terminals and third the other terminal to the last wire. The result is a clear source of trouble and proven by the melted housing. WIRE WORKS has learned from these indicators and manufacturers their harnesses without the need for a connector. In a vehicle being wired one off the straight copper wire can produce up to 80 percent more current without the risk of failure.
Brass can only carry 12-16% of the amperage the a similar sized copper terminal can carry. Copper of course is too soft for use in smaller terminal applications. Between the loss of capacity and the other crimps and connections, certainly a straight piece of copper wire (times the number of circuits in the plug) can work for you much better.
We have to use connectors in some locations between switches and wires or other sensors and wires but why use them where we don't have to? I started my career wiring cars with the 1960s Mopar vehicles that had firewall plugs that failed in use. I spent a lot of time splicing around the firewall connections to reconnect circuits. Reproduction harness have the wonderful points but I suggest to you that unless you are trying to reproduce a factory vehicle, the connectors in the firewall need to be considered nothing but future trouble. If you want to make a more reliable system eliminate that plug.
Look at what made the original fail, look at age and technology of the fire wall plug AND the fuse box. Did the fuse box have some melted areas? Lots of black surfaces? Why put back the same technology that failed under less load than you intend to put it thru. Are you planning A/C? Power windows? Do you think the original fuses held up OK without these heavy options? Plan ahead and consider modern technology. We have to use connectors in some locations between switches and wires or other sensors and wires but why use them where we don't have to? I started my career wiring cars with the 1960s Mopar vehicles that had firewall plugs that failed in use. I spent a lot of time splicing around the firewall connections to reconnect circuits. Reproduction harness have the wonderful points but I suggest to you that unless you are trying to reproduce a factory vehicle, the connectors in the firewall need to be considered nothing but future trouble. If you want to make a more reliable system eliminate that plug.
